Banavasi Kadamba Madhukeshwara Temple

On a crisp fall day in 2019, my friend Ganapati and his wife Aparna, all the way from Dallas, graced us with their presence, and with them, an opportunity arose to finally visit the enchanting Banavasi Madhukeshwara Temple.

After a restful night in Sirsi, following our earlier exploration of Ramchandrapura Matha in Hosanagara, we set off for a short, scenic drive to Banavasi. This quaint town, nestled along the banks of the Varada River, welcomed us with its lush greenery and an aura of unspoiled, rustic beauty.

Stepping into the Banavasi Madhukeshwara Temple was like entering a different realm where history and artistry intertwine. The priest, with his eloquent narration (captured in the video below), wove a tapestry of Pampa's beautiful poetry that was as melodious to the ears as the temple's stone art was mesmerizing to the eyes.

Banavasi Madhukeshwara Temple as per ASI (Archeological Survey of India)

Drenched in history, the Madhukeswara temple, according to the Archeological Survey of India, has evolved from its original dedication to Madhava, a form of Vishnu, during the Kadamba period. It has witnessed extensive additions and alterations, a story told through more than twelve inscriptions and architectural features dating from the Western Chalukyas to the Sonda kings.

The temple's east-facing design features a square garbhagriha with a circumambulatory passage, enshrining the Madhukeswara linga on a decorated yonipitha. Its two sub-shrines, dedicated to Mahishamardini and Ganesa, and a large hall with massive square pillars, speak volumes of the Western Chalukyan era. The superstructure, a blend of Vijayanagara-Sonda styles, rises in a stepped pyramidal Kadambanagara style, adorned with stucco figures of Nandi, the ten incarnations of Vishnu, the twelve forms of Aditya, and other deities.

 

The temple's roof, flat at the center and sloping along the periphery, and its dhvajastambha, or flagpole, in front, add to its grandeur. The contributions of the Sonda kings are evident in the sub-shrines along the prakara wall, housing various deities and sculptures.

Notably, the temple grounds house a remarkable inscribed Naga sculpture, dating back to the 2nd century AD. This artistic creation, alongside a stone cot donated by Raghunatha Nayaka in AD 1628, showcases exquisite carvings, each inch a testament to the craftsmen's skill.

Banavasi is not just about the Madhukeshwara Temple. It's a treasure trove of history, with other temples like Adikadambeswara and Adimadhukeswara, each modest yet rich in ornamentation and stories. This journey to Banavasi was not just a visit to a historical site; it was a walk through the pages of time, where every stone and sculpture whispered tales of a glorious past.

Banavasi Tourist Fact File

Place	Banavasi, 40 Kms from Sirsi,  around 175 Kms from Hubli
How to reach there	From Bengaluru or Mumbai take a overnight train to Hubli. From there you get plenty of daily KSRTC buses to Sirsi or hire a cab. From Goa you can come via Karwar-Kumta route.
Where to Stay	Stay in Sirsi town, Hotel Madhuvan &Samrat are two decent options. While Samrat (managed by planters association) is in the city, Madhuvan is on the outskirts and in a quite, green surroundings. We stayed in Hotel Madhuvan.
Nearby places to see	Marikamba Temple in the town, Sahasralinga (12 kms from Sirsi). We also visited Gauswarga (a large cattle shed) about 35 kms away where many Indian varieteies of cows are rescued and sheltered