Through the Time Hole: A Walk into the Nordic Gaze of Asia

Last week, I found myself stepping through what felt like a time hole inside the National Museum of Sweden. The upper floors of the museum take you on a curated walk through history - beginning with the 16th century and moving forward through the 17th and 18th centuries. Each gallery marks a transition not just in time, but in the refinement of lifestyle, much of which was shaped by expanding sea trade.

There, amidst Flemish tapestries and Delft porcelain, I stumbled upon something quietly breathtaking: a map titled "GEOGRAPHIC MAP of the Great Empire of CATHAY", inscribed in Latin at the bottom right. At first glance, it was a cartographer’s fever dream - equal parts mythology and geography, beautifully distorted by ambition and awe.

The map offered more than geography. It captured a Nordic worldview in flux - shaped by the allure of distant lands, porcelain from China, and silk from India. It was a window into how the people of the North envisioned Asia, relying heavily on accounts by explorers like Marco Polo and the evolving reports from Jesuit missionaries and Portuguese traders.

“Cathay” was the term used - a name popularized by Polo to describe China - though the map also referred to “Sina Regio,” hinting at a transitional understanding of the same land. This region, as imagined by European cartographers, was immense. It was the seat of the empire, home to “Cambalu” (now Beijing), and stretched all the way from the Middle East and India on the left, across Southeast Asia, to Japan on the right.

The merging of myth, religion, and cartography was stark. The placement of the "Oceanus Indicus" and "Oceanus Chinensis" hinted at the emerging awareness of sea routes that would soon define colonial and commercial ambition. Meanwhile, landmarks like "Mare Caspium" (the Caspian Sea) were distorted and oversized - accuracy often gave way to speculation.

India appeared fragmented yet significant - “Regnum Decan”, “Regnum Orixa”, and “Regnum Bengal” spoke to the subcontinent’s political identities. “Taprobana” or “Ceilão”, the ancient names for Sri Lanka, floated nearby. Even rivers like the Indus and Ganges were present, though reimagined in scale and flow.

What struck me most was not the inaccuracy, but the intent. This map wasn’t just about plotting land. It was a narrative - of trade, power, belief, and curiosity.

The museum itself reflects this blend of history and storytelling. Housed in a grand 19th-century building along the Stockholm waterfront, its layout encourages a chronological journey, not just through art but through shifts in taste, culture, and contact with the wider world. Each floor reveals another layer of European - and especially Nordic - encounters with the global.

In the 16th-century gallery, this map reminded me that style isn’t just fashion. It’s also perception - of people, lands, and histories that once seemed distant, exotic, and full of mystery.

How Bhutan Tourism Reflects Japan: A Tale of Nature, Spirituality, and Conservation

This year, our vacation was a tale of two magical places - starting in Japan, the Land of the Rising Sun, and culminating in Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon. What struck me most was how both nations seem to have cracked the code for living in harmony with nature. It’s no wonder they both rank high on the global ‘Green Index’. Yet, they approach their love for nature in ways that are unique, yet surprisingly similar at their core.

In Japan, the relationship with nature is deeply rooted in the concept of ‘Shinrin-yoku’, or forest bathing. It’s more than just a walk in the woods - it’s a mindful immersion into the sights, sounds, and smells of the forest, believed to rejuvenate the body and mind. During my visit, I joined a guided forest bathing session in the serene woodlands of Arashiyama Bamboo Groove in Kyoto. The experience was meditative, a gentle reminder of the healing power of nature and how it’s seamlessly woven into Japanese culture.

Bhutan Tourism: Sacred Peaks and Divine Conservation

When we landed in Bhutan, I discovered a different yet equally profound reverence for nature - one that elevates it to the divine. Here, nature isn’t just a source of well-being; it’s sacred. For instance, Bhutan is home to the awe-inspiring Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed mountain peak, standing tall at over 7,500 meters. During a breathtaking heli ride over the Shangri-La-like wilderness of southern Paro Valley, the peak towered majestically over the landscape, commanding respect and awe (below). It’s not unclimbed because of a lack of interest or courage - far from it. The Bhutanese revere the mountain as a deity, and climbing it is strictly forbidden. To them, the act of scaling such a sacred place would be a transgression against their gods.

This spiritual ethos extends beyond their mountains. Bhutan is the only country in the world where it is mandated by law that 60% of the land must remain forested. As I traveled through lush valleys, dense forests, and the crystal-clear rivulets flowing through their intersections, I saw firsthand how this policy plays out - not just as a number on paper, but as an integral part of their identity. Every breath of fresh air and every shade of green seemed to reflect their unwavering commitment to conservation.

Mandala Displays in Bhutan Tourism: Cosmic Connection to Nature

But Bhutan’s reverence for nature goes even further, blending seamlessly with its spiritual and mythological traditions. This connection comes to life in the intricate mandala displays found in its zhongs and temples. Mandalas in Bhutan are not merely artistic creations; they are cosmic diagrams that represent the spiritual journey from ignorance to enlightenment. These circular patterns, rich with symbolism, mirror the eternal cycle of life, death, and rebirth.

At the heart of these mandalas are often depictions of Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padma Sambhava. His various forms - serene, meditative, and wrathful - take center stage, representing his role as a guiding force leading practitioners toward liberation. Surrounding him, mythological figures like wrathful deities and dragons serve as spiritual protectors, symbolizing the transformative power of overcoming inner and outer demons.

The mandalas, much like the untouched forests and sacred peaks, reflect Bhutan’s deep understanding of interconnectedness. They are a visual reminder that harmony between the spiritual, natural, and human realms is not just an ideal but a way of life.

What’s fascinating is how these philosophies echo one another. In Japan, spending time in nature is healing; in Bhutan, it’s worship. Both cultures understand the need to protect what sustains them, whether through the quiet communion of forest bathing or the reverent preservation of sacred landscapes and cosmic art forms.

As our journey came to an end, I found myself inspired by how both countries balance modernity with a deep respect for the environment and the cosmos. It’s a lesson that the rest of the world could learn from - one that reminds us that the green heart of our planet and the spiritual essence of our existence are worth every effort to protect.

8 Surprising Elements of Japanese Culture Every Tourist Must Discover

Japan fascinates tourists with its breathtaking locales, magnificent temples, majestic mountains, and splendid greenery of its countryside. Yet, what also captivates is the culture and traditions of the Japanese people. Long secluded in history, the tapestry of Japanese culture is richly imbued with unique characteristics in all its forms - from diet to music, gardening to dressing, sports to warfare. However, there are some aspects of Japanese life that seem alien to India.

Mannerisms

One of the most striking aspects is the utmost formality of the Japanese in their interactions. They come across as extremely polite people, soft-spoken and never seen talking aloud or shouting. This politeness extends to every social interaction, from casual conversations to formal business meetings.

Pristine Water Bodies

Whether in the countryside or the cities, all water bodies are kept in pristine condition. The Japanese concept of Shinrin-Yoku, or forest bathing, binds people in love and respect for nature. It's not uncommon to find crystal-clear rivulets and ponds, a testament to the nation’s dedication to environmental cleanliness.

Language Barrier

English has little leverage in Japan. Anglophone visitors might find the country a bit challenging to navigate, as most forms of communication are in Japanese, with little or no importance given to English. This language barrier adds to the authentic experience but can be daunting for those unprepared.

Quiet and Hump-Free Roads 

Another expression of Japanese politeness is the absence of honking and loudspeakers. Even in traffic snarls and choke points on the highways, not a single honk is heard. The tranquility extends to public spaces, where loudspeakers are seldom used, creating a serene environment.

Japanese roads are devoid of speed breakers or humps. Despite the country's reputation for fast cars and bikes, their roads rely on the discipline of drivers rather than physical speed governors. Additionally, roads are often lined with guardrails on either side, though the purpose of these rails is not always clear.

Compactness

In Japan, the art of compact living is elevated to a beautiful standard. From the sleek lines of compact cars navigating narrow city streets to the cleverly designed homes and apartments maximizing every square inch, the Japanese have mastered the art of space efficiency. Even pets often fit this smaller, neater mold, with breeds like the Shiba Inu exemplifying this petite elegance. 

It's not just about space-saving; it's about ergonomics - creating environments and choosing companions that suit the moderate physical stature of most Japanese. This harmonious approach to living is not only practical in densely populated areas but also reflects a deeper cultural appreciation for minimalism and precision.

Minimal Advertising

Commercialization is subtle in Japan. There are hardly any hoardings, with the exception of a couple in Tokyo city. This lack of in-your-face advertising preserves the aesthetic beauty of the landscape and urban spaces.

Cleanliness and Order

Open drains or gutters are nowhere to be seen, and the air is free from stink, dust and exhaust fumes. The absence of overtly religious identities in public spaces adds to the country's modern, secular ambiance.

Social Harmony

Japan is notable for its lack of visible slums or beggars. The only exception we encountered was three road side beggars at the famous Shibuya crossing. This speaks volumes about the country's social support systems and the dignity afforded to all its citizens.

Exploring Japan is not just about witnessing its natural beauty and architectural wonders, but also about experiencing a culture that prides itself on cleanliness, politeness, and respect for both nature and fellow humans. The blend of tradition and modernity creates an atmosphere that is as fascinating as it is serene, offering a unique perspective for travelers from around the world

European Vacation 2023 Musings

As the wheels of our Mercedes bus, earlier the proud carrier of the Czech football team, hummed along the road from Paris to Engelberg, we found ourselves at the threshold of Switzerland in the border town of Basel. Basel, a name synonymous with the stringent banking regulations that govern the financial heartbeat of the world, offered us a brief respite from our journey.

These highway havens, with their mini shopping complexes, are a traveler's oasis, complete with cafés and a plethora of shops brimming with everything from gourmet snacks to fine liquor. Operated by brands like Autogrill, they offer a slice of luxury with their complimentary washrooms—a rare find in a continent where a euro is often the price for relief.

As we veered off the Rhine's path, our bus nestled into the forecourt of a rest stop. Here, amidst the hum of transient lives, I encountered a cultural crossroad.

 

At this Basel town store (above), I picked up a can of beer costing three Euros and proceeded to pay the counter manned by a lady with African features but brownish skin color. She nonchalantly refused to accept the Euros and insisted on a Swiss franks. In many parts of Switzerland, the traded currency is Swiss franc even though Euros are accepted. While I was keen to get rid of the coins I was carrying. So I returned the beer can to her and had almost walked out of the door when the guy standing behind me said ‘Hey, just hang on a minute’. This guy appeared pretty normal, most probably one of the many motorists from Switzerland crossing the border.

After paying the cashier he carried the beer can along with his other stuff and handed it over to me. I gladly accepted and handed over the money. Nodding his head he said ‘No No No’….’ Enjoy your beer’ and just walked away. I was just dumbfounded! Beer is an important part of German culture and  is considered their national drink. I experienced a bit beer hospitality too!

This act of kindness from a stranger, a fellow patron who, with a simple gesture, reminded me that humanity knows no borders. He purchased the beer and, dismissing my attempts to pay, gifted it to me with a smile, embodying the generous spirit often found in the heart of Germanic beer culture. I stood there, momentarily stunned, a recipient of unexpected generosity

Later that evening, we checked into our hotel in Engelberg, located atop a hill overlooking the Swiss Alps nestled at the foot of Mount Titlis. We were slightly delayed as there was an unexpected stopover for checking as we entered the Swiss border. A police car just tailed the bus and without sirens or any communication conveyed the driver somewhat telepathically conveyed the driver to follow the car to a Garage. Here they tested the vehicle for structural integrity while they inspected all documents including the driver’s permit & license (who was a Czech national, a burly man who smoked whenever there was a break).  This unforeseen delay was a reminder of the meticulous Swiss attention to detail, from the structural integrity of our vehicle to the credentials of our Czech driver, a man as sturdy as the mountains around us.

As dusk painted the sky, we arrived at our hotel, perched like an eagle's nest on the hillside overlooking the Swiss alps. The hotel itself was an architectural marvel, connected by tunnels and lifts, a perfect blend of nature and design. My family and I, among the first to disembark, quickly settled our luggage and proceeded to the dining hall, where tables awaited, marked by colors for different tour groups.

Apparently, there was another Indian group checking in from another agency that night. As I were the first to enter the dining room, the lady receptionist at the lobby stepped forward and asked ‘Are you the driver from Kesari group?’ As I was squirming for a reply and looking for a way out, the hotel floor manager in a dark suit with a tie standing nearby overheard the conversation and took me to the side. Apologetically he said ‘ Sorry sir, the lady mistook you for the driver as you have some European features!’ much to my chagrin and bemusement!

This humorous twist of fate, where I found myself mistaken for a driver by the lady at the reception, a case of mistaken identity that was swiftly and graciously corrected by the floor manager. His apology, tinged with a hint of humor, was a gentle reminder of the diverse tapestry of European features and the amusing misadventures that travel often brings.

What makes Singapore successful?

Singapore is well known for many reasons, be its charismatic leader Lee Kuan Yew or its spotless clean surroundings, its reputation as a global financial hub, its impressive high rises, and tourist attractions all count among its charm. It was hard to miss all these vibes when I visited Singapore recently, and I wondered what makes them so successful? and soon after i got the answer in one of the incidents I encountered there.

Among the things I and my wife decided was to explore Singapore independently by taking off some time from the fixed tour schedule. This meant that we went on our own in the city buses and underground trains exploring malls, and roadside shops, and eateries. The buses are frequent there and it is easy to catch a bus around the corner (as owning a car is an expensive affair). The buses are somewhat similar to the Volvo buses that ply in Bangalore but much less crowded. Also, there is no conductor and you have to deposit the money and collect your tickets in a ticket vending machine next to the driver.

Before I get to the incident I pondered over the title and began watching Youtube lectures of Lee Kuan Yew (some call him a benevolent dictator) to understand his mindset. Here is what i realized

How Lee Kuan Yew steered Singapore from ‘a third world island into a first world oasis in a third world region’?

• He brought pragmatic solutions to the island nation, learning from the mistakes of world leaders like Nehru, Neyrere, Sukarno and others. One of the lesson he quickly learnt (in the 1960s) was that their policies of state intervention in developing their economies rather than bringing free market forces was failing them.
• He did not risk his country’s future on theories but practical ideas that worked. He did not want to create a new economy based  ‘on to port trade ‘ with their neighbours. He drew heavily from the ‘leap frogging’ strategy adopted by Israel . The fallout of the cultural revolution in China which peaked in 1979 has a fortuitous effect in bringing big IT investments in S’pore bypassing Taiwan and Hongkong. That helped start a economic miracle
• His reconstruction of S’pore was based on the pillars of economic viability (based on return on capital RoC maxim),  industrial peace-political stability and English as the working medium.
• To attract first world entrepreneurs and their cohorts to set up base in the island, he put in place upto date facilities in telecom & transportation, aiports and container terminals, personal and public security, first world health facilities, and a living environment equal to the first world. He also brought about peace between worker unions and their management to improve productivity
• He then made people change their habits & behaviour to match the first world infrastructure. This meant no spitting and chewing gums, clean public toilets, and no litter. He also took up 'greening' of the island with trees, palms, shrubs, flowers and creepers (which was one of the first thing that struck me while we travelled around the island). He involved the whole population in planting and caring for them

The incident

On the second day of the guided city tour, we left the group after dinner and decided to try the Singapore Flyer (a giant city wheel ride akin to that in London) on our own. The glass capsules give you a thrilling all-round view of the city and it is especially colorful at night (tickets cost us SD40 pp). After the 30-minute ride, we decided to take the underground train back to the hotel. It was around 10 in the night and we walked across the road and entered the downtown terminal, one block away. After a 500-meter walk inside the terminus cross to the far end, we had to go underground to catch the driverless automated trains.

Regular passengers carry passes or general tickets (of designated value) from the automated machines (GTMs). However, we did not have the tickets and without one the barriers wouldn't let us go underground. So I approached the Passenger Service Centre next to the entrance and inquired, operator said I had to take the $20 value tickets per person to go further. I told him that our visit was unplanned and buying the tickets did not make sense as we could hire a taxi for all three of us at that price. The man quickly understood my predicament and asked me to wait while he checked with his superior in the cabin. In no time he allowed us get inside through another gate, told us to go down the escalator, and gave us directions on how to go and take tickets at the nearest counter. 

The efficiency of the operator was astounding, in no time he had created an opportunity for us to travel by the MRT underground train. We did as were told and were able to catch the next train in a few minutes. This time it worked out a lot more reasonably at around $2 per person. We dropped off at a station called McPhersons and then took the city bus to the hotel. Even at 11 in the night bus was near full capacity. Everywhere the operators (whether it is the Bus drivers or MRT staff) were helpful, polite and efficient. It is embedded in their daily lives and attitudes there which makes an incremental and significant difference in the success of this tiny island nation.

Malgudi Days Story – the unknown faces behind its success and the village now

If you put a timeline to it, it has nearly been 4 decades since Malgudi days catapulted into India’s collective imagination on the teletube. But no traces of it can be found in this tiny hamlet on the edge of western ghats as I passed through it recently. I was on a trip to Shringeri from Manipal and after climbing an arduous Ghat section, the main road took us through Agumbe which was basically a stretch of a one kilometer road that meandered through houses and some tea stalls on either sides. There was are no traces of Malgudi except for the familiar sight of old world tiled roof houses one of which was ‘Dodda Mane’ (of which I will come to shortly).

 

Agumbe, the village that became Malgudi days (the iconic TV serial) - old charm, the sleepiness, the rustic ambience

Agumbe received more recognition for ‘Malgudi Days’ serials than the highest average annual rainfall it receives in India after Cherrapunji. Agumbe beat Nanjangudi town which the director of this TV serial dallied and courted for a while for his ‘Malgudi days’ before zeroing on this town on the edge of western Ghats. The search for this fictional town of Malgudi actually began in Mysore and surrounding areas. Mysore where RKN lived and wrote this masterpiece initially conceived of this heritage city but by the time Shankar wanted to flesh it out on the small television canvas it could no longer fit the bill of an idyllic place as urbanization had taken over

While Shankar was searching in the old Mysore region, it was Anant Nag (his elder brother) who asked him to check out Agumbe. Story goes that Anant Nag discovered the old world charm of Agumbe when his car broke down in one of the treacherous hair pin bends of the steep ghats in the vicinity of Agumbe. He could have probably gone there for help and was impressed by the beauty of the malnad heartland

Some people say the word Malgudi comes from two old locality names in Bangalore, Mal as in (Malleswaram) and Gudi (Basavangudi). RKN may have liberally borrowed from the people living in these localities to smoke out his characters. Many of the old houses and streets here still show some traces of the Malgudian world. “ Malgudi is a town habited by timeless characters, who could be living anywhere in the world…….It is where we all belong and where we wish we lived” RKN once said.

 

AI (ChatGPT 4.0 rendered image created to capture the essence of Malgudi Days as described in the blog post

The unknown faces behind 'Malgudi days', the TV serial that captured the imagination of the global television audience

There are many known people who contributed to the success of Malgudi days. It was Ananth Nag (brother of Shankar Nag) who prodded a disinterested Shankar to take up the project. Producer TS Narasimhan (of Banker Margayya fame) who was related to R K Narayan joined hands, Vaidyanathan came up with his signature tune “Taa Naa Naa Tana Nana Naa” are well known names behind the scenes.

Some of the lesser known names like Ramesh Bhat (production assistant), John Devraj (art director) and town planner gave Agumbe some makeover like water fountain and colonial ‘Robert’ statue also take credit

However names like Kasturi Jayrao of Doddamane of Agumbe may not appear on the credit scroll. But without her, the whole idea of hosting 100 plus crew of Malgudi days in this hamlet with no lodges, hotels, or even a telephone exchange would have been impossible. It was Kasturi Jayrao who encouraged Shankar Nag who came scouting around and took lead in hosting them in her Dodda mane where a few episodes like “Naga’ were shot (Go to 7 minutes 12 seconds to see the house). She persuaded others in the town to do so and as Ramesh Bhat puts it, every house in Agumbe hosted 2 or 3 crew members.

The whole town did it with no commercial arrangement, no money was taken for lodging them. They lent their brassware’s and other household items for recreating 1940s scenes in the serial. Some of these houses were converted into make believe Post Office and Police station of Malgudi. The crew even jokingly put up name boards like “Taj Continental’, ‘Ashoka Palace’ on the houses they were hosted to identify who was put-up where and what food parcel was to be served.

The town practically had no facilities , even for ration and other essentials, they had to go down the ghats to Hebri regularly recalls Ramesh Bhat (noted actor and product assistant). The Malgudi village is still more or less the same even now devoid of any modern trappings

Dodda Mane (meaning big house) is a colonial two storied tiled house with lovely inner courtyard. Its exquisite wooden carvings and stone pillars first set the imagination of shankar Nag rolling. The lady of the house Kasturi Jayrao actually set in motion a series of events that went to become 39 episodes beginning 1985 until a road accident snuffed out Shankarnag’s life in 1986.

As per Manjunath Nayaker who played Swami in Malgudi days, most of the shooting (Swami's home) took place in this house of Shankar Rao at Handalasu which is a small Village/hamlet in Tirthahalli Taluk in Shimoga District of Karnataka State (below)

The extent to which Shankar Nag went to recreate Malgudi days

The three seasons of 13 episodes each, set in a 1940s British India, was created to meticulous detail. colonial props were created, background characters pulled in from surrounding villages, vintage cars like Austins were borrowed from friends….elephants, a road roller and such other stuff brought from Bangalore. Shankar even created the freedom movement by showing ‘andolan kartas’ in mundane scenes

The biggest challenge was to recreate the railway station of Malgudi. Since it had no station, Shankar Nag went to the nearby tiny railway station in Arasalu village, then a meter gauge line. Here he had to shoot a bored Swamy standing on a bench in the classroom and watch the train go by through the window. The problem was there was no railway station in Agumbe, so he tore down the school window, took it 78 kms away to Arsalu and recreated the scene masterfully with just the window separating Swamy and the train at Arsalu on opposite sides. The train could not be halted for the shoot, so the first and second shot was taken on opposite platforms. First when the train arrived in the morning and the second one in the opposite platform when it came back 20 minutes later

A tribute to the Malgudi Days (the iconic television serial) facilitator on the first death anniversary

By some strange coincidence, it was the first death anniversary of Kasturi Jayarao when i visited Doddamane last Sunday (5th December 2021) . Her photo adorned the entrance and a few dozen friends & relatives of the lady were having ‘Tithi Oota’ in the adjacent makeshift tent. I met one of her relatives who said that all youngsters/progeny of the three sq km Agumbe, with its about 500 strong populace, have spread out across the world and it is only the elders staying back.

He graciously invited me for lunch and I politely told him that I was coming back from Shringeri after having lunch at the peetha. However I was hungry for more information about the stories surrounding Agumbe and Malgudi days. The grand daughter of Kasturi Jayarao who could have provided this was busy over seeing the function in the house. So I quietly took leave hoping to be back for more some day.

This blog article is a tribute to Kasturi Jayarao and countless others behind the scenes who quietly made the wonderful world of ‘Malgudi days’ come to life

Location	Shimoga district, Karnataka, India
Famous for	Snakes, known as 'Cobra Capital' of India
	The Cherrapunji of South India
Nearby places	Shringeri Sharadamba Temple (25 Kms)
	Manipal (47 Kms)
Where to stay	Seethanadi Nature camp, Hebri (15 Kms away)
	seethanadi@junglelodges.com
	Fares - 750 Camp tents, 1500 Cottages, fare includes coracle ride down the seethanadi river
Where to party	Pubs & Bars like (Eye of the tiger) in Manipal

Whispers of Ancient India: Discovering the Enchanting Ramchandrapura Math and its Bovine Heritage

Journey into the Heart of Karnataka: Ramchandrapura Math in Focus

Imagine embarking on a journey to a place where the whispers of ancient India blend seamlessly with the serene beauty of nature. Welcome to the enchanting Ramchandrapura Math, tucked away in the Shimoga district, amidst the lush Western Ghats of Karnataka. This idyllic spot is enveloped by dense forests and cradled by the tranquil backwaters of the Linganamakki Dam, which gracefully arches over the Sharavati River. A stone's throw away from the quaint town of Hosanagara, or "new town," lies this sanctuary, a mere 6 kilometers journey into the heart of India’s natural wonder.

Ramchandrapura Math is not just a place of spiritual pursuit; it's a living testament to the preservation of India's vanishing bovine heritage. Here, amidst the verdant landscapes, lies a project of passion and preservation – the Goshala. This haven is home to 37 distinct breeds of Indian cattle, both milch and draught varieties, each one a vital thread in the rich tapestry of India's agricultural history. It stands as a beacon of hope against the backdrop of governmental mismanagement in cow breeding, as highlighted by the National Commission on Cattle. This private initiative breathes life into a tradition on the brink of extinction.

'Amruthadhara', the unique cattle shed at Ramchandrapura Math, is more than just a shelter. It's a mosaic of India's native cattle breeds, the largest of its kind in the nation, a modern-day Gokula reminiscent of ancient Indian lore. Its significance was globally recognized in April 2007, when it became the focal point of the World Cattle Conference, underscoring the importance of traditional cow rearing in India.

The Math itself is cradled in an awe-inspiring landscape, where the Sathashringa hills and the gentle embrace of the Sharavathy river create a setting of unparalleled beauty. This harmonious land, where wild animals once coexisted peacefully with cows and deer, captured the attention of Sri Shankaracharya, leading to the establishment of the Raghuothama Mutt. Here, the profound teachings of the Advaita philosophy echo through the hills.

Cultural Immersion: Exploring the World of Havyaka Brahmins

Our journey was further enriched by an intimate glimpse into the world of the Havyaka Brahmins, thanks to our friends Ganapati and Aparna Hegde from Dallas, US. This community, with its roots in ancient Kannada, traces its lineage back to the 32 Brahmins of the Kadamba king Mayursharma's era (345-360 A.D.). Renowned for their expertise in 'havana' or sacrificial rituals, their culture and traditions are a bridge to a bygone era. The havyaks speak a very old and traditional precursor of present day Kannada. Their descendancy is traced to 32 Brahmins brought to his Banavasi kingdom by Kadamba king Mayursharma (345-360 A.D. covered in previous blog). They are considered experts in performing 'havana' or oblations to deities and sacrifices. The name therefore 'Havik' or 'Havyak' means connected with 'havana' or sacrificial rituals

Our arrival at Ramchandrapura Math was greeted by the evening symphony of birds and the solemn chants of young monks, immersed in the daily recitation of sacred scriptures. The math resonated with the timeless wisdom of shlokas, creating a spiritual ambiance that's both tranquil and profound.

After a day of exploration, we retreated to our modest cottages, anticipating a dinner that promised simplicity yet richness in taste, aligned with the satvik principles of the Havyak Brahmins. The absence of onions and garlic only accentuated the natural flavors of the meal.

Goshala: A Sanctuary for India's Indigenous Cattle Breeds

The following day presented an opportunity to visit the Goshalas, an incredible sight directly opposite the Ramchandrapura Math complex. Spanning across what seemed like a narrow ravine, possibly carved out by a dry riverbed or stream from the Sharavathy backwaters, the scene was picturesque. As we crossed over, we were greeted by the serene figure of Lord Sri Krishna, flute in hand, overlooking the serene setting. Flanked by rows of cowsheds on either side of a quaint temple, the Goshalas were a sight to behold.

Here, in this serene sanctuary, we encountered around 500 cattle, each one a living representation of India's indigenous cow breeds. These cows, some of which we captured in the video below, were tended to by a dedicated team, ensuring their well-being and preservation. The complex was a self-contained ecosystem, housing a Cow Products Unit, a Gobar Gas Generator, and Cattle Feed Sheds, all integral to the sustainable management of this unique endeavor.

Our visit to Ramchandrapura Math and its Goshalas was more than just a journey; it was an immersion into a world where tradition, nature, and spirituality converge. It was a vivid reminder of the intricate tapestry of India's heritage, a heritage that continues to thrive in the heart of Karnataka, preserved by the dedication of those who cherish it. This enchanting destination, nestled in the Western Ghats, is not just a haven for India's native cattle breeds but a beacon of cultural and spiritual richness, inviting all who seek a deeper connection with India's timeless legacy.

Gir	found in: saurashtra, gujarat	characteristics: a high milk-yielding breed, extensively used for hybrid varieties both in india and internationally, notably in brazil.
Sahiwal	found in: punjab, uttar pradesh, haryana	characteristics: recognizable by its prominent red color. originates from the sahiwal district of punjab province in pakistan.
Kankrej	found in: bhuj, north gujarat, rajasthan	characteristics: bullocks are strong and hard-working. among the largest cattle breeds in india.
Red Kandhari	found in: marathwada, maharashtra	characteristics: bullocks are good for draught work. cows are good milkers.
Nimari	found in: khandwa, madhya pradesh	characteristics: dual-purpose breed for milk and draught. animals are copper-colored with patches of white.
Malvi	found in: madhya pradesh, rajasthan	characteristics: bullocks are useful for ploughing. cows are average milkers.
Khillari	found in: southern maharashtra, northern karnataka	characteristics: bullocks are hardy and known for being fast workers.
Hallikar	found in: hassan, mysore, tumkur districts of karnataka	characteristics: draught breed used for road and field agricultural operations. related to amrit mahal but thinner and with lower milk yield.
Baraguru	found in: coimbatore, tamil nadu	characteristics: bullocks are good for work.
Kasargod	found in: kerala	characteristics: known for excellent milking ability, producing mineral-rich milk with a high feed-to-milk ratio.
Ponganur	found in: andhra pradesh	characteristics: the breed's milk has a high fat content. it's among the world's smallest humped cattle breeds.
Malenadu Gidda	found in: coastal and hilly areas of karnataka	characteristics: small, dwarfish cows. known for low milk yield varieties.

 

The Ramchandrapura Matha also houses a small counter at the office (video coverage in next blog post) where several excellent cow products (gavya utpanna) are sold.

 Sri Ramachandrapura Mutt Gaushala Hosanagara: Traveler's Checklist

 Location

- Place: Ramchandrapura Math

- Distance: 6 Kms from Hosanagar town, approximately 66 Kms from Shimoga.

 How to Reach

- Travel Options:

  - Overnight train or bus from Bangalore/Bengaluru to Shimoga/Shivamogga (300 Kms, 6 hours journey).

  - Cab via NH48.

 Accommodation

• Where to Stay: Cottages provided by Ramchandrapura Math.
• Booking Advice: Advance booking recommended due to high demand on certain days.
• Cost: Rs.600 per day for a clean cottage with hot water facility.
• Note: The cottages are not tourist resorts, so expectations should be set accordingly.

 Nearby Attractions

• Humcha Village: Located 22 kms away, known for historic Jain temples.
• Kodachadri: A paradise for trekkers and nature enthusiasts, 30 kms away.
• Jog Falls in Gersoppa: India's second-highest waterfall, 44 kms away, with a drop of 253 m (830 ft).

 Contact Information

- Ramachandrapura Mutt Hosanagara:

  - Contact Number: Telefax # +91-081-852 56050

  - Address:

    - Jagadguru Shankaracharya Mahasamsthanam – Shree Samsthana Gokarna

    - Shree Ramachandrapura Math

    - Post Haniya – 577418,

    - Hosanagara Taluk, Shimoga District,

    - Karnataka, India

 Administrative Office

- Address:

  - ‘Shree Ramashrama’, #2A, J.P. Road,

  - Girinagar 1st Phase, Bangalore – 560085,

  - Karnataka, India

- Telefax: 080 26724979

List of branches of Sri Ramachandrapura Math in Karnataka
1. Sri Ramachandrapura Matha, Hosanagara Taluk

2. Sri Ragoottama Matha, Gokarna 

3. Sri Ragoottama Matha, Kekkaru, Honnavara Taluk

4. Sri Ramachandrapura Matha, Thirthahalli 

5. Apsarakonda Matha, Kasaragodu 

6. Sri Ramadeva Math, Bankuli, Siddapura Taluk (Profile)

7. Sri Ramachandrapura Matha, Peraje, Bantvala Taluk

8. Sri Ramashrama, Girinagara, Bangalore 

9. Sri Ramakrishna Kalika Matha, Ambagiri, Sirsi 

10. Sri Ramashrama, Chadaravalli, Sagara Taluk 

Banavasi Kadamba Madhukeshwara Temple

On a crisp fall day in 2019, my friend Ganapati and his wife Aparna, all the way from Dallas, graced us with their presence, and with them, an opportunity arose to finally visit the enchanting Banavasi Madhukeshwara Temple.

After a restful night in Sirsi, following our earlier exploration of Ramchandrapura Matha in Hosanagara, we set off for a short, scenic drive to Banavasi. This quaint town, nestled along the banks of the Varada River, welcomed us with its lush greenery and an aura of unspoiled, rustic beauty.

Stepping into the Banavasi Madhukeshwara Temple was like entering a different realm where history and artistry intertwine. The priest, with his eloquent narration (captured in the video below), wove a tapestry of Pampa's beautiful poetry that was as melodious to the ears as the temple's stone art was mesmerizing to the eyes.

Banavasi Madhukeshwara Temple as per ASI (Archeological Survey of India)

Drenched in history, the Madhukeswara temple, according to the Archeological Survey of India, has evolved from its original dedication to Madhava, a form of Vishnu, during the Kadamba period. It has witnessed extensive additions and alterations, a story told through more than twelve inscriptions and architectural features dating from the Western Chalukyas to the Sonda kings.

The temple's east-facing design features a square garbhagriha with a circumambulatory passage, enshrining the Madhukeswara linga on a decorated yonipitha. Its two sub-shrines, dedicated to Mahishamardini and Ganesa, and a large hall with massive square pillars, speak volumes of the Western Chalukyan era. The superstructure, a blend of Vijayanagara-Sonda styles, rises in a stepped pyramidal Kadambanagara style, adorned with stucco figures of Nandi, the ten incarnations of Vishnu, the twelve forms of Aditya, and other deities.

 

The temple's roof, flat at the center and sloping along the periphery, and its dhvajastambha, or flagpole, in front, add to its grandeur. The contributions of the Sonda kings are evident in the sub-shrines along the prakara wall, housing various deities and sculptures.

Notably, the temple grounds house a remarkable inscribed Naga sculpture, dating back to the 2nd century AD. This artistic creation, alongside a stone cot donated by Raghunatha Nayaka in AD 1628, showcases exquisite carvings, each inch a testament to the craftsmen's skill.

Banavasi is not just about the Madhukeshwara Temple. It's a treasure trove of history, with other temples like Adikadambeswara and Adimadhukeswara, each modest yet rich in ornamentation and stories. This journey to Banavasi was not just a visit to a historical site; it was a walk through the pages of time, where every stone and sculpture whispered tales of a glorious past.

Banavasi Tourist Fact File

Place	Banavasi, 40 Kms from Sirsi,  around 175 Kms from Hubli
How to reach there	From Bengaluru or Mumbai take a overnight train to Hubli. From there you get plenty of daily KSRTC buses to Sirsi or hire a cab. From Goa you can come via Karwar-Kumta route.
Where to Stay	Stay in Sirsi town, Hotel Madhuvan &Samrat are two decent options. While Samrat (managed by planters association) is in the city, Madhuvan is on the outskirts and in a quite, green surroundings. We stayed in Hotel Madhuvan.
Nearby places to see	Marikamba Temple in the town, Sahasralinga (12 kms from Sirsi). We also visited Gauswarga (a large cattle shed) about 35 kms away where many Indian varieteies of cows are rescued and sheltered

Unveiling Anjanadri Hill: Hanuman's Birthplace Chronicles

Exploring Anjanadri Hill: Hanuman's Birthplace

I embarked on a recent journey to Anjanadri Betta, the sacred hill near Hampi that is renowned as the birthplace of Lord Hanuman. However, this trip turned out to be more than just a pilgrimage; it was an enlightening exploration of the rich history and spiritual significance of this remarkable place.

Anjanadri Betta, located approximately 25 kilometers from Kamalapur in Hampi, offers a serene setting for seekers of divine connection. To reach this hallowed ground, I traversed through the town of Anegundi and navigate some rugged roads, thanks to the assistance of my trusty SatNav.

Perched atop a hill, the temple overlooks the majestic Tungabhadra River, formerly known as Pampa. As I ascended the 575 steps to the summit, I marveled at the breathtaking landscape, characterized by stone gorges, colossal granite boulders, and the meandering river. While the renowned Virupaksha temple could be spotted on the opposite bank, the rest of the remnants from the once-mighty Vijayanagara Empire remained concealed from view, adding a sense of mystique to the surroundings. The towering gopura of this temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, graced the landscape.

For budget-conscious travelers seeking value for money, I recommend staying at Mayura Bhuvaneshwari, conveniently situated near the ruins of Hampi. It's a short 45-minute drive from the birthplace of Lord Hanuman. The rooms are clean, the food is satisfactory, and the ambiance is enhanced by the lush green gardens. What's more, it's operated by the Karnataka Tourism board. If you prefer a resort experience, Kishkinda Resort is a popular choice among foreigners, offering opportunities for cycling and exploring the nearby hamlets.

Anjanadri Hill: History, Topography, and Spiritual Significance

Anjanadri Betta's topography is a mesmerizing blend of geology and mythology. The landscape features a harmonious interplay between rocks, the meandering river, lush paddy fields interspersed with coconut groves, and ancient stone structures from the Vijayanagara era emerging from natural rock formations. Tourists flock here to witness the captivating sunset, which adds the final touch to this visual spectacle. For Hindus, this place represents a fusion of geology and mythology, with its seven magnificent hillocks steeped in the religious epic of the Ramayana, serving as a backdrop to the splendid Vijayanagara architecture.

These seven hillocks, including Kishkinda, Anjanadri, Matanga, Malyavanta, Rushyamukha, Hemakuta, and Rathnakuta, have significant connections to the Ramayana. Kishkinda, nestled within the Dandaka forest, was the monkey kingdom during the Treta Yuga, where Sugriva and Hanuman played pivotal roles. Nearby Rushyamukha hill served as their dwelling place, where Lord Rama sought their assistance in his quest to rescue Sita. Inscriptions in Kannada dating back to AD 1069 from Devighat and AD 1088 at the Somnatha temple in nearby Munirabad testify to these events.

Hemakuta Hill, where Lord Shiva performed penance before marrying Pampa, and the nearby hamlet of Anegundi, believed to be Kishkinda according to Valmiki's Ramayana, further reinforce the connection to the epic. The largest monolithic statue of Ugra-Narasimha, the man-lion incarnation of Lord Vishnu, can be found in Hampi, adding to the region's rich historical tapestry.


 

Anjanadri Hill Hanuman temple: The small temple atop the Anjandri Betta which signifies the Hanuman birth place is strikingly modest compared to the massive profile of lord Hanuman in the Hindu pantheon and his place in the hearts of millions of devotees. A young hindi speaking lad from UP carried out the aarati of the swambhu (naturally formed) vigraha of lord Hanuman. He appears in his classic stance i.e, sideways posture, his oblique eyes fixing his grace on the devotee as one enters the sanctum sanctorum. In the adjacent room, two Sants were immersed in a non stop recitation of bhajans in front of the holy triumvirate; Lord Ram, Sita and Laxman made from pure white marble. In the same vicinity, a statue of Anjanadri, the divine mother, faces north, while the others face east, emanating an intense aura.

At the temple entrance, a small aquarium houses a specimen of the floating rock believed to be used in constructing the Ram Sethu. A saint who was reciting bhajans joined us for tea, introducing himself as Ram Khilavan Mishra. Two visiting ladies turned out to be Sadhvis from Gorakhnath Math in Uttar Pradesh.

Outside the temple, a friendly group of monkeys eagerly awaited coconut offerings, while surprisingly, squirrels were also spotted in this rocky terrain. This unique blend of wildlife reflects the devotion and presence of Lord Hanuman's other devotees in this sacred place.

The journey to uncover the birthplace of Lord Hanuman continues beyond Anjanadri Betta, weaving through the rock-cut temples of Vijayanagara and culminating at the Panchamukhi Kshetra, the cave temple where Sri Anjaneya revealed himself in his five avatars: Hanuman, Hayagriva, Narasimha, Garuda, and Varaha to Swami Guru Sri Raghavenda (know the real life 'Lagaan' incident that occured during the British rule here)

A journey in search of Hanuman birth place begins at Anjanadri betta, his glory reverberates in the rock cut temples of Vijayanagar (like the Hazara Rama temple), attains a crescendo at the brindavan of Swamy Raghavendra and culminates at the Panchamukhi Kshetra, the cave temple where Sri Anjaneya revealed himself to the Swami in his five avatars -‘pancha-mukha’ avatar 

Update 17-10-2021

French Ambassador to India  Emmanuel Lenain visits Anjanadri Temple

In recent updates, Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanam (TTD) has declared Japali Theertham near Akasha Ganga waterfall in Tirumala Hills as the birthplace of Lord Hanuman, claiming research and evidence. 

As I conclude this journey, it becomes clear that Anjanadri Betta and its surroundings are not just a physical location but a tapestry of history, mythology, and devotion that continues to captivate the hearts and minds of those who seek the divine in this sacred land.

My earlier blog article on Lord Hanuman  

Trivia: Hanuman is Barack Obama's Luck Charm. In an interview with Youtube creator Nilesen, it was revealed that Lord Hanuman is in the US President's personal memorabilia which he carries everywhere along with few other things in his pocket for inspiration.

Cast Away

"When a big tree falls, the earth shakes" so commented a politician after the death of a former prime minister in 1984. Worst still he was using this phrase to explain the situation of violence against the Sikhs that ensued. Cut the scene 30 years later and nothing much has changed, except that new phrases have come in popular lexicon. Something like ‘Mango people in Banana republic’. Politicians however have remained the same, some morphing into rabid regional chieftains in this period.

So when these local trees, with public profiles as large as General Sherman tree fall, you can be assured of only one thing. The ground rattles, the dust rises and the surroundings cower in fear. It doesn’t matter whether the tree fell due to a natural death or someone sawed it. That’s the law of Nature, they say.

Last week I was in Mumbai and went through a harrowing time because one such large tree fell. The large metropolis that throbs with life 24/7 simply folded up like a Venus flytrap . All the hotels & business establishments downed shutters and the hawkers and roadside vendors simply vanished as the news of death flashed.

Many thoughts and emotions crossed my mind, for once I felt like Chuck Noland in Cast away i.e., marooned in a lonely island with the prospect of living on only air & water for the next 2 days. Staying with a good old friend (who was away) in his bachelor apartment on the Jogeshwari link road proved a costly proposition. It was cozily close to my area of work but the timing of visit seemed to have boomeranged.

A few hours into this piquant situation, I made a recce of the surrounding few blocks to see & salvage whatever was available. Empty streets with stray dogs & cattle greeted me, the tension & fear in the air was palpable. And my stomach was already growling at the prospect of a cold night on an empty stomach.

Just as I was returning to the flat dejected, the watchman at the entrance of the Building asked  “Kuchh nahin mila kya ”? As I nodded in despair, this 50 something person took some mercy on me & whipped out his pocket book. The guy had a decent demeanor and looked like someone who was doing odd jobs after retirement. He asked me to dial out a number and then picked my mobile and spoke in chaste Marathi to check whether the ‘Dabba’ services was still available.

To my relief it was still on. Some enterprising lady in a neighboring apartment, who worked in a bank I was told, was still continuing with her services. The nature of her service & the fact that I was almost next door helped. Sure enough the carrier arrived an hour later with 4 chapatis, 2 Sabzis, Rice & Dal, all at an economical Fifty rupees.

After the watchman placed the order I thanked him in Marathi and gave him a tip. He accepted my offer but continued the conversation in Hindi. After a pause I asked his whereabouts & learnt that he was a Gujarati. The true spirit of Mumbai once again overwhelmed me.

BAP & the cradle of temple architecture in India

BAP stands here for the trilogy BADAMI-AIHOLE-PATTADKAL which I visited recently. It was doubly special from me in another sense; I was born here in Bagalkot 41 summers ago in the now district Govt hospital where my mother served as lady medical officer. The best thing about this trip was it made me realize the historical significance of this place & the enormous treasure trove of its cultural heritage. It also in a way reset my perspective on History and made me wonder how underrated this place was especially vis-à-vis Hampi (of Vijayanagar empire fame)

Chalukya had been another word for the express train that runs between Bangalore & Mumbai . Little did I realize the significance of this major dynasty who dominated this part of the country from the 5th century to 8th Century & after a brief lull right upto 12th Century BC.

The landscape here is marked by red sandstone hills with steep cliffs criss-crossing flat fertile land mostly of black soil which can bake upto 42 degree during summer . These hills lined one side of the motorable road as I drove down from Belgaum which lies towards the west (about 160 Kms away). Like the Grand Canyons these rock formations present a picturesque view and wherever they came under the chisel of the master Chalukyan craftsmen the result went simply awe inspiring.

 

At Badami a set of caves emerge out of a monolithic single stone reminding me of Al Khazneh of the ancient Jordanian city of Petra . There is something remarkable about these reddish gold sand stones; they still provide a rich amber glow to the pristine stone carvings and yet speak of thousand plus years of vintage. They are still magnificent enough to drown & diminish the defacing suffered at the hands of the marauding invaders (native rival neighboring kingdoms of that time I suppose). Even the famed Ajantha caves came up 400 years later & were in much better shape as they were hidden in Jungles for centuries until stumbled upon by an English explorer.

Around 30 Kms away from Badami is Aihole , a place which is aptly described as the laboratory for architecture rather a university of Indian architecture. At a time when the world was emerging out of the early medieval ages, the craftsmen here were experimenting with the Northern Nagara and Southern Dravida styles of temple construction. These 2 temple architectures which evolved between 5th & 7th Century had clear distinctions in dome (shikhara) formation, ground plan, selection & positioning of stone carved deities on the outside walls and the interior, and the range of decorative elements. The Nagara style from the North & Dravida in south came together in a melting pot here. 

And the chalukyan craftsmen did not experiment in mere tinkering but full throttle innovations. The Durgi gudi (Durga Temple) is a poignant majestic proof of that effort. To get a sense of this period (early medieval period) Roman temples were being converted into Christian churches in Europe while the Cahokia people, the most advanced of the plains people in North America were building earthen mound structures, Islamic architecture was just taking roots. 

  

Pattadakal (coronation stones roughly translated into Kannada) is truly the crowning glory in every sense because not just that the Chalukya kings made it a point to be crowned here but also evolution of Hindu temple architecture that began in Badami and Aihole culminated in the magnificent temples here. They mark the final phase of development of Hindu temple architecture; a synthesis of the North & South Indian style mentioned earlier.

Popular perception always puts Hampi in the limelight of civilizational’s achievement, its temple grandeur is the poster boy of tourism. Yet I cannot help but believe that Hampi should always be under the shadow of its more illustrious predecessor & neighbor - The BAP , 600 years its senior and where it all began in temple architecture & grandeur .